Exploring Saba’s Mt. Scenery on an Adventure Hike with Crocodile James

Hey Loves!

Are you ready for some adventure? Well, you will need some hiking boots or comfortable shoes and your hiking sticks because we are going to be venturing out in nature throughout this blog. My love for the great outdoors stems from childhood. Connecting with Mother Nature is something that always brought me peace and tranquility. As a child, I would hike the Shenandoah National Park and enjoy the stunning views. As much as I appreciate nature, I will admit that I have an extreme aversion to bugs. In fact, you will probably find me dramatically screaming and running frantically if one ever landed on me. Those who know me are familiar with the shrilling screams. 

When I decided to go hiking in a rainforest all sorts of thoughts went through my mind knowing that running in the slippery and unpredictable rainforest was not an option if a bug landed on me. 

I figured that if I could survive that flight to Saba, MAYBE I could survive a three-hour hike and some bugs lol. So let’s get into the keys and gems of hiking Mt. Scenery!

Mt. Scenery

While in Saba, I had the pleasure of hiking Mt. Scenery, a volcano on Saba Island. Do not worry Loves, the volcano is dormant with the last eruption in 1640. At 2,877 feet, Mt. Scenery is the highest point on the island and the Kingdom of the Netherlands. Among the 20 trail options, I accepted the challenge of hiking one of the most strenuous trails the island offered. Mt. Scenery is a 90 minute hike one way. Before finalizing my decision, another traveler I met on the island stated they only made it up a few stairs and determined it was too dangerous to continue hiking. They softly urged me to not do the hike. I am glad I did not listen because I would have missed out on an incredible experience!

Saba Living Legend: Crocodile James

My entertaining and unique guide is a Saba legend. At the youthful age of 70 and an eighth-generation Saban, James Johnson, (affectionately known as “Crocodile James”), is a beloved favorite on the island. He gets his monicker from his crazy and daring escapades around the world.  He has the wildest and most eccentric stories to keep you entertained on your hike. You will learn that his family arrived on the island hundreds of years ago. He humorously shares that he is a descendant of pirates, (though not the “Pirates of the Caribbean” kind). You will often find him with his machete, prepared to embark on hiking adventures.

Crocodile James has a unique accent that appears to be a blend of Scottish, Dutch, and doses of Caribbean. He has trekked all over the earth with his buddies and goes up and down Mt. Scenery alone a few times a day. During his stories, he shares how he cheated death more than a few times on his bewildering escapades. He is truly a brave soul. His stories are captivating and leave you on the edge of your seat waiting to find out how he got himself out of the craziest situations! Crocodile James rolled up many of the stones on the trails and meticulously placed them himself. He takes great pride in the upkeep and preservation of the trails. 

💎: Even if you are a seasoned hiker, it is definitely worth the experience to book a hike with Crocodile James. You will be educated, enlightened, and entertained with endless laughter from his wild adventures.

Before we began our journey, Crocodile James informed me that there are about 1,064 extremely steep stair steps to the top of the mountain. The steps range in various steepness, so I needed to be extremely careful and pay attention. The steps in the rainforest are muddy and very slippery, so a walking stick is a must. You will find lizards and non-poisonous snakes throughout the trails. I made sure to stick close to Crocodile James when I was told that. Y’all now know my aversion to bugs is no secret, so I could not afford to run screaming and end up tumbling down the trails. After Crocodile James briefed me on what to expect on the hike, we set off on our journey. 

On our journey, we came across some nuts. Crocodile James quickly whipped out his machete to cut it open so we could peek inside.

🔑: Make sure to have supportive hiking boots or comfortable shoes for this adventure. Mt. Scenery is extremely slippery due to the rainforest. Additionally, it is extremely helpful to use a walking stick on your adventure for extra support.

🔑: Water, bug spray, and light snacks are helpful to quench your thirst and provide nourishment on your journey. Bug spray will help repel the bugs!

💎: Hikers can borrow hiking sticks from The Trail Shop located at the foot of the Mt. Scenery Trail. At the end of their hike, hikers can get a certificate of completion for $2 USD, with funds going towards the Saba Conservation Fund. If you are hiking with Crocodile James, he is kind enough to let you borrow some of his personal ones. He meticulously pairs the walking stick best suited for you, ensuring a great hiking experience. 

As we continued on our journey, I saw some colossal Elephant Ears, the biggest I have seen in my life. Crocodile James told me that there were so many uses for them, including a makeshift umbrella haha.

He cut another Elephant Ear to display their impressive size in comparison to me. They are huge!

Herbal Gems

When I say that Saba is truly a simple way of living filled with gratitude, I mean it. The residents fully utilize the herbs and natural things God blessed them with on the island. Crocodile James’ knowledge of herbs in the rainforest was impeccable. He is an unrivaled flora and fauna expert on the island. He showed me herbs to help with the common cold and the flu. Crocodile James even taught me a formula on how to use herbs to get a good night’s rest. He humorously calls it “Super Sleep,” meaning I will be knocked out until the next day lol. He could spot any plant, herb, or tree and immediately tell you what it was and how it could be used to improve your health.

Additionally, Crocodile James pointed out plants that were good for asthma and bronchitis. There were bushes that helped with ankle and muscle pain; plants that helped with diabetes and controlling sugar; and even plants that helped with hypertension. There were so many things! Essentially, the medicine that anyone needed grew straight from the ground. 

There were several plants that he pointed out that were poisonous to both humans and wildlife. As he showed me, he advised me to not go near them at all. As someone who in fact believes that “fat meat is greasy,” (as my parents would say “You don’t believe fat meat is greasy.”), I did not dare go near them. 

🔑: Be careful of the Manchineel Tree. They are extremely poisonous! The milky sap from the plant will cause blisters on the skin. After the rain, the water from the plant can have the same effect on the skin. Although the fruit tastes and smells good, it is very deadly when consumed. 

Sometimes, Crocodile James would take me off the trail to show me plants within the rainforest.

While taking a detour, he introduced me to the Annatto plant. Natives often used this plant for paint, and women used it for lipstick.

During COVID-19, Crocodile James stated Saba initially only had only three cases from someone who came to the island. He informed me that they found an herb to assist with that. He would joke and say “Want the cure to Covid? Come to Saba!” I received a wealth of knowledge and notes filled with so many plants to add to my herbs diary for my health. 

Top of Mt. Scenery

Crocodile James and I eventually reached the top of Mt. Scenery, and it was well worth the hike. The views were breathtaking and you could see nearby islands St. Kitts and Stacia Island (St. Eustatius). I am so glad I decided to go on this experience.

I felt like I was on top of the world.

The Journey Down Mt. Scenery

In the popular words of Isaac Newton, “What goes up, must come down.” Okay, I know we are not technically discussing gravity, though you get my point. Making the journey down Mt. Scenery was no easy feat. With the slippery rocks, it seemed a bit more difficult coming down than going up.

I also may or may not have slipped a few times in the rainforest. Life flashed before my eyes y’all lol! 

Rendezvous

On our way down, Crocodile James and I made another stop where I met more of the island’s delightful residents. Among them was a former cheesecake business owner from the United States, who sold her business and retired in the serene and beautiful Saba. She currently owns the spectacular restaurant, Rendezvous. This secluded and hidden gem is in the middle of the rainforest on the path to Mt. Scenery. You can enjoy delicious meals, tasty drinks, and live entertainment. 

While speaking with the owner, she informed me that they eventually plan to have a bed and breakfast for people to stay. Also, I was mind blown at how they logistically moved all the equipment up the mountain for the restaurant and bar. The dedication was impeccable, as they made it a priority to cater to guests for a full Saban experience. She was kind enough to give me a tour of the grounds. Crocodile James quickly discovered she had cilantro growing in her backyard. To her delight, she was so excited and never noticed it. I picked some, and it was definitely cilantro!

I also saw growing pineapples, her turtles, and so many other gems along the way.

Rendezvous is currently open on Thursdays – Saturdays and Sunday Brunch. The owner was such a sweet delight to speak with and promised cheesecake whenever I was back in Saba. (With cheesecake being my favorite dessert I think I will hold her to that promise haha). 

On our way back down, I saw various animals including this bull.

I did not dare go near it, though I was so excited to see one so close. Well, my bubble soon busted because Crocodile James told me the bull was raised from a baby and would be going to the slaughter the next week. Yikes!

Ending with Gratitude

Crocodile James and I continued our journey down the trail. I listened intensely to more stories that he shared as my eyes got big as saucers and my jaw dropped at some of his experiences. Once we returned to our starting point, I thanked Crocodile James for the hike and expressed my sincerest gratitude. We also took a selfie!

I woke up the next day feeling sore all over my body from my hike. Equally so, the sense of accomplishment I felt was out of this world. This is an experience I am so grateful for and will never forget! I am excited for my next hiking adventure in the great outdoors!

Well Loves, that is enough adventure for now. For our next and last stop in Saba, I am excited to share with you the amazingly creative and artistic side Saba has to offer!

Until our next adventure abroad,

Stay Grateful, Love Deep, Dream BIG, and Happy Travels!